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I had a Nyko drop-in charging cradle for my Xbox 360 controllers for a couple of years and always loved the convenience of being able to leave the controllers in the cradle when not in use and have them available with a full charge at any time. Alas, the relatively short battery life compared to rechargable AAs eventually made me give up a little convenience for the much longer battery life. I never saw any need for something of this nature with my PS3 controllers, as their 30-hours on a charge battery life made charging the battery a once a week at most affair. The 4-hour charge of the Dualshock 4 is a different story. An easy to use daily charging solution was needed. For awhile I used a 4-port USB hub located on the table next to my seating area, but the frequent use of the micro-USB port worried me when it came to the frequent charging required of this generation of controller. I looked at the various cradle types of chargers and found most had a feature that wasn't to my likin

First of all, there is no such thing as a perfect game controller. As soon as you optimize things for one type of game and/or one type of player it will be suboptimal for other types of games or players. I have been playing video games since 1977 and have played or owned almost every game system since the Atari VCS 2600. I have used the stock controllers, many aftermarket controllers, and even made and played a few custom controllers and in the few hours since my Dualshock 4 arrived I have held it in my hands, (carefully) opened it and looked at the fabulous internal design, and used it with my PS3. In my short time with it and mentally comparing it to everything else I can honestly say that this is the best, most comfortable joypad so far (the Valve Steam controller is in Beta still, so it will be awhile before this promising looking device is out). Second, I am not, repeat NOT a fanboy (O.K. I was one in the past, first Atari, then Nintendo, and even championed the ill fated Dreamcas

I was recently given the opportunity to test and evaluate Netgear’s CM400-1AZNAS DOCIS 3.0 Cable Modem.* after putting the equipment through its paces, I’ve jotted down a number of thoughts: Packaging – Non-descript brown box with an egg crate-like tray to hold the modem, feet, power cube and cord, shielded ethernet cable, installation manual, and notices. Decidedly no frills but it works. Physical description and Build Quality – This thing is tiny! It’s significantly smaller than the current Time Warner Cable box we have. The Netgear modem is smaller than a Blu-Ray case and about an inch thick. As far as ports, it’s a very simple affair with a coaxial jack, power port, and ethernet port. The only physical button is the reset button on the rear. On the front you have a number of indicator lights for power, uplink, downlink, internet, and ethernet. Overall, the unit has decent build quality. Setup – If you’re on Xfinity, setup is a breeze. You don’t even need to contact them to activ

The box says refurbished, but looks new to me. Came with protective plastic on the front bezel, instructions, cable, power adapter. Best of all, it fired right up and Comcast cable had no problem provisioning it. What else can I say. I works like it was supposed to work. If you are not familiar with cable modems, here are a few things you should know before you lay out your money for one. This type modem is NOT a ROUTER, you will need one if you want any kind of firewall at all between the outside world and your computer. You may also want an Ethernet hub because this modem has only one Ethernet port on the back which is meant to go from the box to your computer and that is it. Since most households now have Smart TV, Smart Phones, Smart Refrigerators etc these devices all require a wireless internet link. This cable modem does not provide any wireless link. That is something you must furnish as well. I have my cable modem hooked up directly to a wireless router. Then I have one Ethern

I got this cable modem for my folks a short while ago rather than have them continue to pay a monthly rental fee to Comcast. I chose the Motorola 5100 based on the reputation of Motorola, the price (although it wasn't as good as this Amazon price), and the technology. Installation was easy with a quick start guide as well as a full manual (on cd). For the price, you can't beat it. It has the latest technology- DOCSIS 2.0 but is backward compatible with the older standards DOCSIS 1.0 and 1.1 used by mostly all cable internet providers. (Please be sure to check with your cable internet provider first before buying any modem to make sure they support the DOCSIS standard and modem you are considering buying.) The Motorola has both USB and Ethernet connections so you can directly hook up 2 computers without having to buy extra networking hardware. Another nice feature is the STANDBY button at the top which you can use to temporarily cut off the internet. Also, it is relatively compa

After a great deal of research for my circumstances, this specific cable modem is my best available option as a "supported device" with Comcast, my Internet Service Provider (ISP). Amazon Prime offered a competitive price (since increased). The order arrived on time along with another Amazon order placed later that arrived a day early. If you are a basic internet service consumer, you probably are not shopping for a DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem. If you want the best "bang for your buck" and need fast internet access say for video on demand or online gaming, read on. Bottom line, this Cisco DPC3800-CC cable modem works on my Comcast service. It does not operate at DOCSIS 3.0 speeds. My quantifiable thru put is now more than doubled by replacing a leased DOCSIS 2 cable modem with this DOCSIS 3 modem. The pay back is 12.2 months by eliminating the Comcast modem lease. My disappointment rests with Comcast, not this product. Here is why. While the FCC wants US ISPs to make 100

If you are looking to ditch the monthly charge of renting a modem from your ISP, or simply to get higher performance, this Netgear modem is currently the best option out there. I'm a software engineer, gamer, and consume all my video content through the webso I live through the internet. Why this Netgear modem? A few months ago I picked up an Arris SURFboard SBG6580 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem/ Wi-Fi N Router, after previously having success with Arris modems. I liked the idea of an all in one combo, and since the SBG6580 was dual-band I figured it should work great. It didn't. The short version of the story is I spent the next 6 weeks with terrible internet issues, which I thought was mostly Comcast's fault (after previous experiences) disconnects, download speeds of around 1Mbps, upload speeds of .5Mbps (despite paying for 50Mbps down and 5Mbps up)and then it would work perfectly for 3 minutes. Super frustrating. After extensive research it appears the SBG6580 wireless was the

It seems that various ISPs are breaking FCC regulations and Federal Law by refusing to activate some newer modems, in an attempt to force users to use a "leased" modem. There is an essentially IDENTICAL version of this device, the SB6141, which is the "ISP leased" version of this. You can't buy that, at least not "officially," mind you. (EDIT - since I originally wrote this, it does seem that it's become possible to buy the "cable operator only" SB6141 directly) Time Warner Cable has just had me on the "loop" for the past two and a half hours, and I'm still on hold as I write this. They're telling me that the device isn't on the "approved list" and thus cannot be activated on their system. This, of course, is PATENT NONSENSE. All they require in order to access any device is (a) a device which speaks the same electronic "language" (in this case, DOCSIS 3.0, which TWC Austin supports fully, and bra

I was pretty skeptical of the effectiveness of the device due to the low price compared to the competition. Turns out those were unfounded!  The directions in the quick start guide are clear and had the device set up in two minutes with the push of two buttons; no connection to a computer was necessary since my router had WPS. Our router is on the first floor in the office (far east side of the house). I took the extender to the west side basement to test it out. [Test was quickly done using a Samsung Galaxy S3 on Verizon, used the wireless network settings menu to view signal strength and link speed] Basement without the repeater: Signal strength: Good (one bar), Link Speed: 20 Mbps Basement with repeater: Signal strength: Very Strong (full bars), Link speed 72 Mbps So far, so good, but the intended application was for an out-building/ detached shop, located about another 100 feet west of the house (approx 200 feet from router, and multiple walls/obstructions).  Only the very closest